Alps · Trails

Mala Mojstrovka: a slow traverse of Slovenia’s most accessible alpine peak

By Zdravko R. · September 14, 2024

Located in the heart of the Julian Alps, near the upper end of the Vršič Pass, Mala Mojstrovka (2,354 m) and Velika Mojstrovka (2,366 m) offer a scenic and rewarding hike in a striking alpine setting.

Slovenia is full of stunning mountains, and most of the most beautiful ones are gathered in the Julian Alps. Among them is the long, impressive Mojstrovka ridge — a smaller but very attractive part of the main Julian Alps divide.

This ridge stretches in a southwest–northeast direction between Jalovec and Vršič Pass. The northeastern part of the ridge features three prominent peaks:

Mala Mojstrovka is especially elegant—a sharp, rocky dome. Rising to 2,333 metres, it towers directly above the famous Vršič Pass (1,611 m), competing with the mighty Prisojnik on the opposite side for every visitor’s attention.

Its southern slopes are relatively gentle and moderately steep, while the eastern side is much steeper, full of ravines, steep cliffs, and several demanding mountaineering routes. But the most attractive and photogenic side is definitely the northern wall — almost vertical, dropping some 500 metres straight down to the Sleme plateau. From there, long karst slopes continue gently down toward the beautiful Tamar Valley (around 1,300 m).

How to climb the Mojstrovka peaks

Thanks to its perfect location right next to Vršič Pass and a relatively easy southern approach, Mala Mojstrovka (and to some extent Velika Mojstrovka) are among the most visited peaks above 2,000 m in the entire Julian Alps.

There are two main marked routes from Vršič Pass to the summit of Mala Mojstrovka:

  1. The classic “Via Normale” – southern route → ~2 hours
  2. The more exciting “Hanzova pot” – northern via ferrata → ~2.5 hours (half an hour longer, but much more attractive!)

Vršič Pass (1,611 m) → Via Ferrata: Hanzova pot

From the big parking area on Vršič, follow the initially not-very-clear marked path toward Mojstrovka and Sleme. The path first climbs transversely below Šitna glava. Soon, the route from Erjavčeva koča hut joins from the right. After a short steep section, you reach Vratca Pass (1,807 m) — another important crossroads.

A short climb opens up beautiful alpine views and brings you to a bigger rock with a sign. Turn left toward “Hanzova pot” / Mojstrovka. You bypass a few rocks, step over a picturesque scree valley with lonely trees… After about 1 hour of walking, you reach the starting point of the via ferrata. → Here you must put on your via ferrata set!

1. Climbing Mala Mojstrovka via ferrata (Hanzova pot). The beginning usually has iron steps, but in late spring / early summer, you can find snow patches here. Sometimes crampons are very helpful to reach the first rocks, but if there is hard ice, the ascent can become dangerous. In that case, it’s better to turn back and take the normal route. (On my first spring climb, we actually lost one crampon right here…)

After the first steps, the route becomes well protected with many wedges and steel cables — your constant companions. There are still a few short sections without cables. The path climbs very steeply, sometimes very exposed, over shelves and ravines. It is exposed to falling stones — be careful. Gradually, the slope becomes less steep, and an unmarked path from Šitna glava joins from the left.

After a few more minutes, the terrain flattens — you go around the right side. Soon, the trail approaches the ridge — Mangart and Jalovec appear right in front of you! Then comes the final steep part — mostly without cables, just a few wedges. You climb the steep summit slope and suddenly — you’re standing on the beautiful summit of Mala Mojstrovka!

2. Mala Mojstrovka Summit. There is a registration box and a stamp at the top. The view is sweeping and magnificent: Špik, Dovški križ, Veliki Oltar, Škrlatica, Prisojnik… Close by: Velika Mojstrovka, Zadnja Mojstrovka, Šitna glava. On the other side: Jalovec, Mangart, Ponci ridge… In the distance, the big Austrian peaks: Großglockner and Großvenediger stand out.

3. Descent: Via Normale (southern route) Much easier and faster — mostly walking down the scree slope. No via ferrata gear needed.

Alternative – Vršič Pass → Mala Mojstrovka: Via Normale (winter or classic summer route)

1. Vršič Pass → Vratca Pass Same starting point. At the first crossroads, go left (the right path goes to Hanzova pot). Many people use this route in winter. We usually put on crampons right at the beginning. On a beautiful, sunny, windless day, the snow is hard — crampons hold perfectly. The path climbs moderately through low dwarf pine, juniper, and scattered larches.

After ~10 minutes, you leave the forest and step onto open slopes — juniper fields, partly snowy. Wonderful view toward Vratca pod Mojtrovko Pass and Grebenc ridge on the south side of Mojstrovka. Before entering Vratca pod Mojtrovko Pass ravine, once again, if wintercheck your crampons.

2. Vratca pod Mojtrovko Pass → Mala Mojstrovka From the pass, the snow path becomes steeper — climbing through the area called Grebenc all the way to the top. Later in the day, the surface snow softens → a little more slipping, but still manageable with attention. When you finally step out onto Grebenc — boom! — phenomenal 360° panoramic views open up.

Mala Mojstrovka Summit in Winter / Snow

On a sunny winter day, the summit feels like a reward — you sit, relax, and enjoy the completely white, magical panorama. Almost all surrounding peaks are covered in white magic. And of course — the jackdaws will come to say hello, reminding you that life continues even high in the winter mountains.

On foggy days… the views are not so stunning. But fog has its own special atmosphere and mystery.

3. Descent. Same way you came up — back to Vratca Pass and then straight down the steep slope to Vršič Pass. In good winter conditions, the whole slope is usually covered with nice snow — perfect for a beautiful winter descent.

Enjoy Mojstrovka — it really is a special one! 🗻🙏

Tips from the Goat

Route Details

Important note: If it’s your first via ferrata → please read about the basic principles and safety rules before you go!